CONVENTIONAL PAINTS:

- Lacquer, Acrylic Lacquer, Enamel and Acrylic Enamel paint finishes

.HI-TBCH

PAINTS:

Clear coat and urethane paint finishes.

HIGH BAKE PAINT FINISHES:

O.E.M. paint finishes that are baked at82c (180 degrees) for 20 minutes.

FORCED DRY PAINT FINISHES:

Refinish work that is placed in an environment with an air make up system

that accelerates drying time from 4 hours to approximately 45 minutes.

AIR DRY PAINT FINISHES:

Refinish work that is allowed to dry in a natural environment without

artificial air or heating.

TOP COAT:

The top layer of paint which is the color on conventional paint finishes and

_ the clear coat on basecoat/ clear-coat paint finishes.

FILM BUILD:

The total film build up from the bare metal to the top of the top coat including phosphate,

primer, basecoat and clear- coat. The average film build on a non-clear coat finish is 3.2 -

3.5 mils and3.7 - 4.0 mils on a clear-coat. The film build is usually lower on the side _' surfaces. When the film build substantially exceeds these averages, the surface has

probably been repainted. Excessive film build will often remain soft and not fully cured,

making it difficult to buff.

NOTE: Meters and gauges for measuring film build are on the market.

WATER SANDING:

Sanding a paint finish with sand paper or sanding blocks soaked in water for at least 30

minutes and lubricated with water or soap and water during sanding to remove major

paint defects. (Also known as color sanding, wet sanding and flat sanding).

Detailers should also be aware that by the time a vehicle reaches the detail shop, it

frequently has more than one type of paint on it. Automakers often use a manual repair

line in the factory to touch up finish flaws, while auto dealers must occasionally repair

minor scratches and dents acquired during transport before putting vehicles on the

showroom floor. Older cars that have been previously repaired or totally refinished may

iirvolve stilt other different types of paint.

FACTS ABOUT BUFFING:

It is best to check each area to be worked on independently because the type of paint may

vary by area. Look for overspray on moldings, door locks, door handles, etc. as well as

different color paint in door jams, under the hood and other hidden areas.

Urethane, polyurethane, polyester single stage and multi-stage paint systems offer

dramatically improved quality, durability and appearance. At the same time, they can be

easily abused by using obsolete buffing products and techniques creating scratches and

swirl marks that are almost impossible to remove.

BUFFING PRODUCTS:

Begin by choosing the correct buffing products for the specific finishes to be worked on

and the desired re3ults.

BUFFING TOOLS:

Selection of the most ideal buffing machine is usually determined by the following

- factors:

1) Type of paint.

2)Type of products being applied.

3) Desired results.

4) Level of operator skill.

BUFFING MACHINES TO CHOOSE FROM INCLUDE:

ORBITAL BAFFERS

Best suited for the application of non-abrasive products to achieve improved gloss without buffing swirl marks. The results created with an orbital buffer are usually similar to those created when applying products by hand. The difference is primarily a greatly reduced level of effort for the operator.

CAUTION: Do not expect to remove paint defects and oxidation with an orbital buffer.

- The limited action of these buffers does not create enough friction to remove paint

defects. For this reason, orbital buffers are ideally suited for operators with limited skill

who might easily burn paint with a rotary buffer.

This is the dominant buffing machine used by professionals for a1l types of paint finishes.

Available in a variety of buffing speeds, the correct buffing speed is determined by the

type of paint being worked on

1. LOW SPEED (1200 -t7s0 RPM)

Most effective on the newer, BC/CC paint finishes which are more reactive to excessive

heat buildup and static.

2. HIGH SPEED (1750 - 30oo RPM)

Ideal for use on conventional acrylic Lacquer and acrylic enamel paint finishes.

CAUTION: High speed buffers require a higher level of operator skill.

Variable Speed Buffers are also available that can operate effectively at both high and

low RPM.

POLISHING PADS:

Fiber free "foam" pads create added gloss and depth of color on all types of paint finishes

without creating buffer swirl marks.

Combed wool polishing pads are becoming obsolete. Because of their wool fiber, they

create swirl marks, making it difficult for them to compete with the dramatic results

produced with foam pads.

Twisted wool cuffing pads are still the most effective buffing pad to use with compound

or cleaners for removing paint defects and heavy oxidation on conventional paint finishes.

Following the use of a wool cutting pad, it may be necessary to buff to remove the deep

swirl marks.

CAUTION: DO NOT MIX PRODAC?S. Use a separate, dedicated buffing pad for each

product to achieve desired results.

BAFFING TECHNIOUES

ORBITAL BUFFBRS:

Buffing Techniques are not needed for orbital buffer use because it is almost impossible

to create a problem with this type of buffer. Basically, the only knowledge needed is that

the product is to be applied onto a clean bonnet on the machine and then buffed into the

finish, overlapping each stroke by 50%oto insure complete coverage.

ROTARY BUFFERS:

Substantially improved results may be achieved with a rotary buffer. When buffing out

oxidation and other paint defects with a cleaner, use a liberal amount of product, slower

buffing motions and added downward pressure to increase friction and provide maximum

dpportunity for the product to remove the paint defect.

When buffing out minor surface imperfections and creating brilliant high gloss with a

polish, a smaller amount of product and less pressure is needed to achieve maximum

results.

If the surface is oxidized, apply compound cleaner to buffing pad rather than directly onto

surface. Dry paint often sucks product into its pores immediately upon contract, leaving a

snake pattern where the product begins to dry out.

When buffing with a polish apply product directly onto finish in stripes approximately 15

inches long and 12 inches apart and begin buffing immediately before the product begins

to dry out.

Always keep the buffing pad completely flat to the surface to further reduce the risk of

buffer swirl marks. Do not rely on how the angle feels. Watch your pad, especially on

angled surfaces, to be certain that it stays flat.

After putting the product onto the pad, quickly spread the product with the buffer over an

area that is comfortable to work on without taking a step, avoid short rapid strokes. Move

the buffer slowly across the surface using long straight motions and overlap by 507o the

buffing pattern left by the previous pass. This insures uniform coverage and allows both

product and buffer to perform at maximum efficiency.

When buffing on half of a large flat surface, be careful to go over the half

- way point from both sides to prevent the possibility of missing a small area in the

middle. Avoid buffing directly on top of raised character lines. The reduced film build on

these narrow surfaces increase the risk of paint burn through. It is best to buff up to them

from each side. Continue buffing until the product breaks down and only slight film

remains for final wipe off.

The "dry- buff' technique may be used on Iight colored conventional paint finishes.

When buffing on BC/CC paint finishes, use the "wet buff' technique as an added

precaution against buffer swirls. Stop buffing just after the product begins to break down

and before an overall dry, glossy finish appears. Repeat the same. procedure on each

panel. After entire surface has been "wet buffed", use a clean, soft, cotton terrycloth

towel to wipe off the excess product. If a stubborn paint blemish still remains after

buffing, reapply a small amount of product over the blemish, pull it into the pad and

confine the buffing sftokes to the immediate area of the blemish while applyrng additional

downward pressure...still keeping the pad flat. If a variable speed buffer is being used,

consider increasing the RPM for added friction to remove the blemish.

CAUTION Always keep the pad moving and Limit your strokes over the blemish to

prevent excessive heat build-up and possible burn through. Stop immediately if the

surface becomes too hot to lay the face of your hand on it. BC/CC paint finishes are more

reactive to heat build-up and static electricity.

IIEAT BIIILD-UP: When buffing creates excessive heat, a general hazingmay appear

across the surface being buffed and the product may dry like a film and refuse to buff out.

To remedy heat build-up, wipe the area down with cool water, dry the surface and resume

buffing at a lower RPM if possible.

STATIC: When static electricity is present on the surface being buffed, the product may

dry like a film or turn "gummy'' and begin to ball up. This occurs most frequently on

painted fiberglass/plastic. To remedy, ground the surface being buffed to metal.